 |
| |
|
Do-it-yourself
AIR JORDAN 1 Black Toe
Mann, all sneakerfreaks know that
the HOLY GRAIL of all Air Jordans are the AIR JORDAN 1 Black Toe
colorway. Why are they the Holy Grail of all Jordans you ask?
Well, they are the "first pair" of Air Jordans MJ ever
wore. When MJ went to Portland to shoot that infamous Jumpman Chicago
Skyline photo, he supposedly wore a pair of these. I said supposedly
and you'll see why later on... Back to the Black Toes again. These
Blacktoes are as rare as Saddam's @ss (that was before he got caught,
it ain't so rare now).
They hardly ever go up for auction in eBay and Yahoo! And when they
do, you need $1500 plus to win. The last pair on eBay went for $2250.25!!!
Here's the link : http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2864046233&category=15710
The seller was rair-e-fied and it was a size 9.5. When the auction
ended on Oct 26, 2003, dbay212 was the winner. I was going to put
up $2,000 for them kicks but $2,250... nah a bit too much for a
USED size 9.5.
Feeling a bit disappointed, I embarked on a plan
to satisfy my need/desire/obsession for a pair of Black Toes. Herewith
are my DIY Air Jordan I Black Toe project. Remember that I said
the Black Toes supposedly look like the pair MJ wore when he shot
the Jumpman Chicago Skyline poster. Well, take a close look at the
tongue. It's BLACK. It's not WHITE like the official/authentic Air
Jordan I Black Toes that Nike released in limited quantities in
the Chicagoland area (that's according to Rairefied's auction description).

The tongue is BLACK with a red "Nike
Air" label!!! Which makes things easier for us to create an
"EXACT" replica of MJ's Jumpman Black Toes....
|
| |
Ingredients
:
1 pair of Air Jordan 1 Black/Red (New, deadstock condition preferable
so that the paint adheres better)
600 grit "wet & dry" sandpaper.
1 roll of masking tape, box cutter knife, scissors & plastic bag
(not shown).
1 spray can of model white primer/basecoat paint. This is the key
to success.
A good spray-can of primer will make it easy to "white-out"
the black leather. I'm using a Ral Partha Spray Primer WHITE. It's
specially used for priming metal figurines, but in this case, I'm
priming AJs.
Primers are chemically different to paint. They dry faster (5 mins
if using Partha) and bond to most surfaces. The main ingredients in
Partha is ethyl benzene, touluene and acetone. All are carcinogens.
1 jar of Gunz Sangyo Black Semi-gloss acrylic model paint
1 jar of Gunz Sangyo Red Semi-gloss acrylic model paint
1 jar of Gunz Sangyo White Semi-gloss acrylic model paint
2-3 different size paint brushes.
|




|
| |
Step
1 : Preparing the painting surface.
- Remove the
laces.
- If not deadstock/new,
you may need to clean leather of any dirt and grime by washing
it.
- Next coat
the painting area with liquid detergent. This will remove surface
wax/release agents. If not removed it'll be difficult for the
paint to stick, especially water-based paint.
It's very important that you remove all the surface wax, otherwise
the paint finish will not be smooth. Take your time to coat the
edges and stitch areas. Leave for 1-2 hours then wipe off with
a dry cloth.
- Once most
of it is gone, use a damp cloth to remove any detergent stuck
in the edges/corners.
|

|
| |
Step
2 : Sanding the painting surface.
- Use a fine
grit "wet & dry" sandpaper (600 grit or finer) to
sandpaper the surface. Sanding will stop the paint job from peeling
off when you wear the shoes.
- Make sure
you don't "oversand" and destroy the smooth surface
of the leather. It has to be rough but not too rough. Watch out
for the stitches, you don't want the threads to "fray".
Keep away from the stitches if possible.
- After sanding,
clean the shoes again to remove any debris, especially those stuck
in the edges of the leather. Use a dry piece of rag to wipe off
the dust. Then use a damp piece of rag to get rid of dust stuck
in the sharp edges/corners.
|




|
| |
Step
3 : Masking the painting surface.
- Test spray
the primer on the plastic bag to see if it'll melt the bag. If
it does, then you should use a different primer or use a Mylar/polyester-based
oven bag that you can find in your local supermarket. Oven bags
will not melt!
- A tape and
plastic bag can be use the mask areas of the shoe from unwanted
paint.
- Make sure
the tape forms a tight seal around the edges.
- My strategy
is to start with the most difficult area first. The Forefoot the
the toughest, then followed by the inner Midfoot and lastly the
outer Midfoot.
|



|
| |
Step 4 : Spraying the primer.
- Pick a nice
cool day to do this. Ideal temperature should be 20° to 25°
Celcius (68°F to 77°F) and humidity 20-40%. If it's too
hot and dry, the primer would dry-up before it hits the surface
of the shoe. Too cold and wet, you might have to wait for the
paint to dry.
- Make sure
the room you're spraying in is well ventilated (not windy) and
has no naked flames.
- Test spray
the primer on newpaper to clear/clean out the nozzle. Note how
the aerosol is dispersed. Is the distance to far, is it too close,
is it too thick?
- Then spray
the primer on the shoe evenly.
- Focus on
the edges/sharp corners first. Areas where there's potential that
the primer won't cover properly. By doing that, some of the back-spray
will settle on the big/easy areas.
- Once the
corners and hard to get areas are covered by primer, you'll just
need a few blast to cover any exposed big/easy areas.
- Wait for
5 to 10 min for the primer to set. Primers chemically different
to paint in that they are design to dry up quickly and form a
strong bond to the leather. They also have greater OPACITY. Meaning
that you only need one or two coats of primer to block out the
black surface. If you use, ordinary paint it could mean 4 or 6
coats. Not only is this expensive (paint is generally more costly
than primers), but the repeated coatings could make brushstrokes
visible from afar. UGHHH!!
|





|
| |
Step
5 : Painting the shoe.
- Make sure
the room where you're painting is not too warm. Otherwise the
paint will dry up too quick and become "tacky". You'll
easily get nasty brushstroke marks on the surface.
- Moisten the
paint brush. (What you do is dip the brush in water and then dry
it with a piece of cloth/tissue.) A moist brush will make it easier
to control the paint.
- Paint the
edges of the Nike Swoosh black. When that's dry, brush the first
coat of the big area of the swoosh. When you're painting the big
area, use a gentle "back and forth" action. That way
the paint will flow and form a uniform finish without any brushstrokes.
Don't press the brush against the surface too hard.
- Wait for
30-60 min for the black paint to dry. Retouch any area not covered
by the black on Nike Swoosh (ie. put on a second coat). Then use
a black, permanent ink sharpie to touch up tiny areas (eg sharp
edges/corners) that are too difficult to reach with a paintbrush.
- Next is to
retouch the red edges on the heel counter area. Use a red marker
pen with an ultrafine tip. Or use a fine "sable-hair"
paint brush (expensive brushes to buy from art supply shops)
- Next is to
retouch the white edge on the forefoot area.
- Then retouch
the black stitches on the heel area to white colour.
|






|
Step
5 : Final Pictures of Black Toes
- Below are
pics of the masterpiece.
Total time : Masking and priming 1.5
days
Painting
and touch-up 1.0
days
TOTAL 2.5
days
CALCULATING COST SAVINGS OVER ORIGINAL BLACK TOE
Auction winning bid for Used Size 9.5 Black Toe US$2,250.25
LESS :
Deadstock AJ 1 Retro 2001(+ shipping) US$ 140.00
Ral Partha Primer US$ 7.00
Gunz Sangyo Acrylics (Red, Blk, Wht) US$ 5.00
Sable Hair artist paintbrush (3 sizes) US$ 16.00
"Wet & dry" emery sandpaper US$
2.00
TOTAL SAVINGS US$2,080.25
!!!
I saved US$2,080.25 by making my own pair of Air Jordan I Black
Toes. And mine are the exact replica of what MJ wore, its got
a black tongue and Red "Nike Air" label. Geez, I feel
realll good. With that sort of savings, I could afford a dozen
pairs of AJ XVIIs.
Note that these shoes are for DISPLAY. They aren't wearable
because the acrylic paint will crack. If you want paint that don't
crack then use a leather stainer/paint like Angelus.
Follow the instructions and you may have to dilute it with acetone.
Like all paint chemicals, eye and skin safety is important. And
don't breath in the fumes. Niketalk
Archives has shoe painting tips using Angelus.
|







WARNING
! THIS IS INTENDED AS A GUIDE ONLY. WAMS BEAR NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR THE
OUTCOME SHOULD YOU DECIDE TO PROCEED ON THIS PROJECT. WE ARE NOT LIABLE
FOR ANY LOSS, FINANCIALLY OR OTHERWISE JUST BECAUSE YOU FOLLOWED THIS GUIDE.
NOR SHOULD YOU USE THIS GUIDE WITH THE INTENTION OF DEFRAUDING OTHERS OR
ATTEMPT TO GAIN SOMETHING FINANCIALLY OR OTHERWISE. DO NOT USE THE PICTURES
IN ONLINE AUCTIONS, I'LL COME AND KILL YOU. SERIOUSLY!!! |